Category: Food

Hedgerows

That’s right – planting hedgerows!

For many years I lived in South Devon, England. I never thought twice about hedgerows because they were so common.

Then today I read an article in The Economist about Brexit and the one thing that was favourable was this “Brexit delivers a win for British wildlife.

Here’s a small extract from the magazine:

No other country matches the rich heritage of hedgerows that weave across the damp (ideal for hedges) British Isles. Since the Bronze Age, Britons have reared sheep and cattle and have used hedges to mark the boundaries of fields and keep livestock in place. Some of these ancient bushes still stand. In West Penwith, one such prehistoric hedge, a gurgoe, might be over 4,000 years old. Most, though, were planted in the 18th century, when landowners enclosed the commons, an event that turned the country into a chequerboard of small, irregular fields. America, by contrast, passed a law prohibiting private landowners from enclosing public land in 1885, protecting its open ranges.

Here in Oregon hedges are not so common. But I did some research as to the cause and came upon this article by Oregon State University.

I trust it may be shared with you.

ooOOoo

A Guide to Hedgerows: Plantings That Enhance Biodiversity, Sustainability and Functionality

Pami Monnette and Jude Hobbs

EM 8721 | Revised June 2020, Reviewed 2023

An aerial photo taken above Forest Grove shows hedgerows bordering the urban growth boundary and used as buffers between fields. 
Photo: Justin Smith, © Oregon State University
This young hedgerow bordering a field features native plants that provide habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators.
Photo: Janet Donnelly, © Oregon State University

We see them at the edges of farm fields or along roads: long rows of trees, shrubs, flowers and grasses known as hedgerows. They are living fences with the ability to grow food, shelter wildlife, save water, manage weeds and look beautiful all year round.

Hedgerows are sometimes called shelter belts, windbreaks or conservation buffers. These layers of plant life enhance the beauty, productivity and biodiversity of a landscape. 

Hedgerows originated in medieval Europe and are enjoying a modern resurgence. People in England planted hawthorn cuttings and allowed them to grow about 6 feet. They were bent and trained to fill gaps in the trees, yielding a living fence. They called these fences “hagas” or hedges, form the word “hawthorn.” As the birds settled in the hawthorns and dropped seeds. more plants sprung up. Today, many farms in England are surrounded by ancient hedgerows that shelter beneficial organisms and conserve soil and water. 

Hedgerow plantings were uncommon in the early United States. In the 1930s, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Shelterbelt Program briefly supported planting trees for windbreaks to prevent soil erosion in the Midwest. Today, as interest surges in sustainable farming methods, more people are turning to this age-old practice.

Hedgerows can serve several ecological functions. Among their many benefits, hedgerows:

  • Enhance ecological biodiversity.
  • Offer food for livestock, humans and wildlife.
  • Provide habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators.
  • Facilitate water conservation.
  • Provide windbreaks.
  • Help manage invasive weeds.
  • Provide erosion control and improve soil health.
  • Support the health of aquatic habitats.
  • Enhance carbon sequestration.
  • Create borders and privacy screens.
  • Reduce noise, dust, chemical drift and other types of pollution.
  • Diversify farm income.
  • Generate year-round beauty.

Let’s look at these benefits in detail.

Benefits of hedgerows

Enhance ecological biodiversity

Biodiversity describes the variety of life forms within a specific ecosystem and the relationship of these organisms to one another and the broader environment. Hedgerows can be designed to attract a wide variety of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, insects and plants, many of which offer beneficial relationships to each other. They also create more edges, or “ecotones,” between different habitats, which increases species diversity. Trees and shrubs provide shelter for larger mammals, and nesting sites and perches for raptors, which are important predators of rodents. Dense or thorny shrub thickets can offer songbirds a refuge to escape predators as well as a place to nest. The diverse composition and structure of a hedgerow creates a functional habitat where species experience vital interconnections with one another and the environment.

Offer food for livestock, humans and wildlife

Hedgerows provide undisturbed refuge for species of all kinds, creating wildlife corridors, travel lanes or habitat islands. Hedgerows help protect wildlife from predators and provide sheltered access to riparian zones or other water sources. These corridors are especially important in fragmented landscapes, such as fields where only a single crop is grown. Hedgerows provide shade to reduce heat stress and help to block wind currents. These measures support a healthier wildlife population. Berry-producing plants encourage insectivores, such as birds, that also prey upon common crop pests. The hedgerow habitat creates cover for wildlife so they can feed, nest and care for their young.

Provide habitat for beneficial insects and pollinators

Planting a variety of flowering trees, shrubs, forbs and perennial plants provides insect habitat, and nectar and pollen sources throughout the year for beneficial insects and pollinators. Plants in the family Umbelliferae attract parasitic wasps; predator flies such as hover flies, lacewings and ladybeetles; and true bugs, like ambush or minute pirate bugs. Flowering plants in this family include coriander, dill, fennel, parsnip, parsley and carrots. These plants are useful in the kitchen and are also very attractive to pollinators. Over 75% of successful production of food requires pollination. Increasing plant habitat for pollinator species improves fruit set, size and quality, as well as general biodiversity. Pollinator habitat also attracts beneficial insects, which prey on many crop pests. Increasing the numbers of beneficial insects can help farmers manage crop pests and cut down on insecticide use.

Facilitate water conservation

Hedgerows retain water and reduce evaporation by reducing wind speed and providing cover over the ground surface. Plants also catch and store water in their root systems, leaves and branches, slowing the rate of excess rainwater entering waterways and reducing the risk of flooding. Decaying matter from the roots, stems and branches of hedgerow plants increase the organic matter in the soil over time. This increases the soil’s ability to absorb and retain water. Planting hedgerows on hillsides helps conserve water and soil by reducing erosion. If planting near adjacent cropland, periodic root pruning can reduce competition for nutrients and water.

Provide windbreaks

Properly designed hedgerows can reduce wind speed by as much as 75% and improve crop performance. This is especially effective when plantings reach a density of 40%–50% and are planted perpendicular to the prevailing wind. Wind-resistant trees usually have flexible, wide-spreading, strong branches and low centers of gravity. Wind-tolerant shrubs often have small, thick or waxy leaves or very narrow leaves or needles, to help control moisture loss. Wind can disturb pollination and damage fruit and flowers when plant parts thrash against each other. During times when soil is exposed, a windbreak can protect topsoil from erosion. Crops under wind stress also put energy into growing stronger roots and stems, resulting in smaller yields and delayed maturity. Strong winds also cause lodging of grain and grass crops, bending the stems and making harvest more difficult. Winds dry out crops on the field edges, increasing pests such as two-spotted spider mites.

Help manage invasive weeds

Hedgerows planted along roads or between crop fields may prevent weed seeds from blowing into the field. The weed seed pods collect on hedgerow plants, where a farmer could remove and burn them. Hedges can prevent millions of weed seeds from entering the crop field. As hedgerows mature, these plantings displace invasive weeds. If well maintained, this weed management lasts the lifetime of the hedgerow.

Provide erosion control and improve soil health

Rain, irrigation, clean cultivation and vacant field borders can all increase erosion potential in an agricultural system.

Hedgerow plantings can significantly reduce the amount of soil erosion on a landscape. They can also provide a barrier to filter out pollutants, such as pesticides, and slow down sediments and organic material that can flow from farm fields into waterways. This is accomplished by increasing the surface water infiltration rate and improving soil structure around the root zone. This, in turn, decreases fertilizer runoff from farm fields. The biomass that plants shed acts as a soil conditioner and can enhance plant growth. In urban or suburban environments, hedges similarly reduce pollutants from neighboring sites.

Support aquatic habitat

Hedgerows can provide shade to riparian areas. Shade reduces water temperatures, prevents water evaporation and improves watershed quality. Though many factors influence watershed temperatures, studies have proven that lowland streams bordered by trees and tall shrubs exhibit cooler temperatures. The hedgerow’s latitude, stream aspect, leaf density and the height of its vegetation from the water surface all affect water temperature.

Enhance carbon sequestration

During photosynthesis, trees, shrubs and grasses absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, allowing the carbon to become part of the plant’s tissue. As plants die or shed tissue — either through natural processes or pruning — the carbon that was stored in the plant breaks down and enters the soil. Plants store relatively large amounts of carbon in their biomass, helping to offset some of the effects of climate change. A tree can absorb as much as
48 pounds of carbon dioxide per year and can sequester, or store, 1 ton of carbon dioxide by the time it reaches 40 years old.

Create borders and privacy screens along roads and between properties

Hedgerows are attractive borders and can block undesirable views. Evergreens offer year-round screening. When selecting plants, consider the height at maturity for optimum screening. Evergreens can be pruned to control height and density. Plant a diverse mix of species to help protect against damage from a single pest or disease.

Reduce noise, dust, chemical drift and other types of pollution

As hedgerows mature and become dense, they can create barriers to reduce noise, dust, chemical drift and other pollutants. Open canopy trees are effective barriers to dust and pesticides; air and particles slowly filter through them instead of depositing clouds of pollutants on the other side of the hedge.

Plant hedges as close as possible to any areas where pollutants are a concern. This can help alleviate neighborhood conflicts where agriculture intersects with urban areas.

Hedgerows can act to contain contaminants from urban or suburban environments and keep them from entering agricultural areas.

Diversify farm income

Trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants in a hedgerow can also serve as sources of income. Potential products include nuts, fruits, berries, leaves, flowers, seeds, bark and medicinal herbs. You can grow plants to be propagated as seeds, rootstock, cuttings and transplants. Other potential crops are nursery stock and floral materials, including ferns, broadleaf evergreens, flowers and willows grown for craft material and furniture. You can grow fruits, berries and nuts for food. Hedgerows can shelter bees and encourage a higher pollination rate. Consider planting trees for secondary wood products such as lumber, veneer, firewood, chips for bedding and mulch. Game birds such as quail, pheasant and sage grouse are attracted to hedgerows. Managed hunting can provide a potential source of food and off-season revenue for landowners.

Generate year-round beauty

Hedgerows in the landscape add continuous beauty. You can design a hedge for year-round interest, considering the color and texture of leaves and bark, bloom color and timing, and the general growth habit or form of plants.

Hedgerow design
Graphic: Kerry Wixted with graphics from Tracey Saxby, IAN Image Library, courtesy of the Integration and Application Network, University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science
Native red-flowering currant adds beauty to a hedgerow.
Photo: Janet Donnelly, © Oregon State University

Establishing and maintaining hedgerows

Whether in rural or urban settings, the principles of planning a hedgerow are the same: Evaluate the site, determine what you would like to accomplish with the plantings, match the right plant with the right place, and properly prepare the site.

Design

There are many essential components to consider when designing a multifunctional hedgerow. The first step is to observe the site where the hedge is to be planted and take into consideration the ecological and environmental conditions listed below. These elements influence the design, plant selection, location and the size of the area to be planted. Although a single line of trees will provide some benefits, four or more rows of plants are optimal for windbreaks, water and soil conservation, wildlife habitat and general biodiversity. When it works for the situation, place plants tallest at maturity in the center row, with shorter ones inter-planted between and along the edges. A diverse selection of plant sizes and characteristics is most beneficial. When possible, orient rows perpendicular to prevailing winds.

Hedgerows following land contours create meandering lines on the landscape, producing a natural appearance and larger buffer for wildlife habitat. If the goal is to attract pollinator species, reserve approximately one half-acre for every 40 acres planted in crops.

Plant selection

Plant a wide variety of multi-tiered plants for maximum habitat. Avoid varieties that are susceptible to common pests and diseases and choose plants that are non-invasive. Some perennial species such as blackberry can provide excellent wildlife habitat and food crops but are highly invasive and require frequent maintenance. See the plant lists on page 7 for plantings suited to the Pacific Northwest.

When selecting plants, consider the conditions plants need to survive in specific habitats:

  • Range: place of origin (indigenous, native/non-native).
  • Hardiness zones: frost dates.
  • Light requirements: sun or shade.
  • Size of plants at maturity, growth.
  • Soil type (pH, fertility, erosion concerns).
  • Drainage.
  • Water movement and moisture needs.
  • Planting time.
  • Bloom time: seasonal interest.
  • Day length.
  • Productivity.
  • Tolerance to heat, cold, salt, drought, pollution, wind and wild or domestic animals.
  • Evergreen or deciduous.
  • Plant structure: form or shape, texture, leaf and bark type.
  • Edible or poisonous: what parts.
  • Insect and disease resistance.
  • Plant size, costs and availability.
  • Maintenance needed.
  • Allellopathy: a chemical inhibitor of one plant to another which can impact germination or plant growth.

Ultimately, place plants together that have similar soil, water, sun and drainage needs.

General planting recommendations:

  • Plant trees and shrubs about 6 to 8 feet apart in rows 8 to 10 feet apart.
  • Plant one or two rows of tall trees flanked by a row or two of shrubs. A 20-foot wide hedgerow can have two rows of shrubs flanking a row of trees.
  • Hedgerows work best for wildlife when they are wider than 20 feet.
  • Depending on the site’s prevailing winds, a winter windbreak could have at least two rows of evergreen trees and a row of deciduous trees or shrubs. A summer windbreak could have at least one row of tall deciduous trees and a row of deciduous shrubs.
  • Make sure the planting holes are deep and wide enough to accept and cover the roots of each plant. Be sure to water in each new planting.
  • In a small area, place a 3-inch layer of straw mulch or cardboard around each tree and shrub after planting to discourage weeds and encourage plant survival.

Soil preparation

Soil preparation is one of the keys to plant survival. On a smaller site, an easy way to establish planting areas in existing grass or pasture is to apply a thin layer of compost or manure, followed by several layers of cardboard, and mulch such as straw or leaves. Worms are attracted to the manure and will work over the winter to decompose grasses and fertilize the soil. However, this method may not be practical on a large scale. In this instance, prepare the area for planting by tilling the ground in spring and planting an early cover crop such as crimson clover, followed by buckwheat. In late summer, till or disc in the cover crop and replant an overwintering cover crop such as crimson clover, field peas or vetch. Cover crops improve soil fertility, reduce weeds, stabilize the soil and attract beneficial insects. Till again the following spring and install the first set of plantings for the hedgerow.

Another option for sites with high weed pressure is solarization. Closely mow the ground and put down UV-stabilized anti-condensation greenhouse plastic in midsummer for several weeks to kill the weeds. After solarization, remove the plastic and follow with a fall planting.

Planting time

In more temperate environments, fall planting allows roots to become established before foliage emerges and gives plants the benefit of winter rains. In extreme cold climates, early spring may be the ideal time for planting. At the time of planting, apply amendments such as compost or manure as a top dressing.

Irrigation

To increase the success rate of your hedgerow planting, provide supplemental water for the first two or three years. Irrigate once a week during the heat of the summer during the first year. For the second year, water every two weeks. In the third year, irrigate once a month. Irrigation needs depend on the location and the plants selected. Be sure to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Most hedgerow plantings may not survive if they do not get supplemental water in the first few years. Water can be supplied by swales, furrows, flood, drip irrigation or hand watering. If the hedgerow is next to cropland, overhead irrigation from the crop can be extended to water the hedge.

Keeping out weedy plants and destructive wildlife

One of the biggest challenges in establishing a hedgerow is keeping unwanted plants from taking over the new plantings. There are a variety of techniques to inhibit these weedy plants. The simplest method is to leave alleys between plant rows for mowing, cultivation or mulching until plants are well established. Ideally, an area 6 to 8 feet wide around the hedgerow should be mowed, flailed or tilled for weed management, fire protection and rodent control. It is also important to mulch heavily with a minimum of 3 inches of leaves, straw, sawdust or cardboard around each plant. As plants mature, they will eventually shade out most annual weeds. This is the ideal time to infill with low-growing, shade-tolerant plants.

If needed, protect plants from beaver and nutria with hardware cloth, and use partially buried plastic-coated cardboard or tubing around tree trunks to protect from voles and mice. If applying pesticides, follow the label in order to protect riparian zones along rivers, creeks and ponds from contamination.

Managing a hedgerow in the first few years is similar to managing a crop. Good weed management during establishment results in less labor to control weeds in seasons to come.

Cost of establishment

Planting hedgerows does not have to be expensive. Seedling plants are available at low cost, and you can propagate new plants from existing plantings. The larger the plant, the sooner it will reach maturity, which is especially important in creating a fast-growing privacy screen. This can be achieved by purchasing dormant bareroot plants and 1-gallon potted plants or larger. Remember, these larger plants will most likely require summer irrigation. Government programs are available to assist landowners with hedgerow development. Many counties have tax exemption programs for riparian lands, along with wildlife habitat conservation and management programs. See “Incentive programs to help with hedgerow establishment” and Estimated Costs To Establish Pollinator Hedgerows, in “Resources,” pages 9–10.

Conclusion

A hedgerow is a long-term commitment. With proper planning and care, it will take approximately four to eight years to establish a hedgerow and 30 or more years for it to reach maturity. To encourage success, draft a plan with planting installments for each year, depending on your goals and budget.

Hedgerows in rural agricultural or urban settings provide many benefits that increase over time, including the opportunity for supplemental income. With benefits for wildlife, humans and the planet, hedgerows are a practice that has stood the test of time.

Hedgerow plants

Hedgerows can contain native and non-native plants, although plants should not be invasive. The following trees, shrubs, groundcovers and perennial plants are appropriate for hedgerows in the Pacific Northwest. Remember to consider proper site selection and plant requirements. Plants that tolerate wet soil are indicated by an asterisk (*).

Sun-tolerant plants under 25 feet

  • Arbutus unedo Strawberry tree
  • Aronia Chokeberry Schubert
  • Baccharis pilularis consanguinea Coyote brush
  • Ceanothus velutinus Tobacco brush
  • Cornus stolonifera Red twig dogwood
  • Diospyros kaki Japanese persimmon
  • Diospyros virginiana American persimmon
  • Elaeagnus multiflora Goumi
  • Elaeagnus umbellata Autumn olive
  • Ficus carica Fig
  • Fuchsia magellanica Hardy fuschia
  • Lonicera caerulea Blue honeyberry
  • Lonicera involucrata Twinberry
  • Malus fusca West Coast crabapple
  • Malus sp. Apple
  • Morus Mulberry
  • Myrica pensylvanica Bayberry
  • Oemleria cerasiformis Osoberry
  • Philadelphus lewisii Mock orange
  • Prunus avium Cherry
  • Prunus domestica Plum
  • Pyrus pyrifolia Asian pear
  • Ribes sanguineum Red-flowering currant
  • Ribes divaricatum Black gooseberry*
  • Ribes nigrum Black currant*
  • Rosa nutkana Nootka rose
  • Salix fluviatilis Columbia River willow*
  • Salix hookeriana Hooker’s willow*
  • Sambucus cerulea Blue elderberry*
  • Spiraea douglasii Western spiraea*
  • Vaccinium corymbosum Blueberry*
  • Vaccinium ovatum Evergreen huckleberry
  • Viburnum opulus Highbush cranberry

Sun-tolerant plants 25+ feet tall

  • Abies grandis Grand fir
  • Acer macrophyllum Bigleaf maple
  • Alnus rubra Red alder*
  • Arbutus menziesii Madrone
  • Asimina Pawpaw
  • Calocedrus decurrens Incense-cedar
  • Castanea Chestnut
  • Chrysolepis chrysophylla Golden chinkapin
  • Diospyros virginiana Persimmon
  • Fraxinus latifolia Oregon ash*
  • Juglans regia English walnut
  • Picea species Spruce
  • Pinus ponderosa Ponderosa pine
  • Populus trichocarpa Black cottonwood
  • Prunus subcordata Klamath plum*
  • Pseudotsuga menziesii Douglas-fir
  • Quercus garryana Oregon white oak
  • Robinia pseudoacacia Black locust
  • Thuja plicata Western redcedar

Groundcovers

  • Fragaria chiloensis Strawberry
  • Gaultheria shallon Salal
  • Mahonia nervosa Oregon grape
  • Polystichum munitum Sword fern
  • Vaccinium vitis idaea Lingonberry

Vines

  • Lonicera Honeysuckle
  • Akebia Five-fingered akebia*

Plants for pond edges

  • Typha latifolia Cattail*
  • Ledum glandulosum Labrador tea

Plants that tolerate shade

  • Chrysolepis chrysophylla Golden chinkapin
  • Cornus nuttallii Western flowering dogwood*
  • Corylus cornuta Hazel*
  • Physocarpus capitatus Ninebark
  • Polystichum munitum Sword fern
  • Sambucus racemosa Red elderberry*
  • Prunus virginiana Chokecherry

Plants for partial shade to shade

  • Acer circinatum Vine maple *
  • Amelanchier alnifolia Serviceberry
  • Berberis aquifolium Oregon grape
  • Gaultheria shallon Salal
  • Cornus stolonifera Red-osier dogwood
  • Holodiscus discolor Oceanspray
  • Lonicera involucrata Twinberry
  • Oemleria cerasiformis Indian plum
  • Philadelphus lewisii Mock orange
  • Rhamnus purshiana Cascara sagrada
  • Taxus brevifolia Western yew*
  • Vaccinium ovatum Evergreen huckleberry

Edge plantings

  • Achillea millefolium Yarrow
  • Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Kinnikinnick
  • Berberis nervosa Cascade Oregon grape
  • Calendula officinalis Calendula
  • Cichorium intybus Chicory
  • Foeniculum vulgare Fennel
  • Fragaria chiloensis Wild strawberry
  • Gaultheria shallon Salal
  • Lavandula angustifolia English lavender
  • Medicago sativa Alfalfa

Nuts

  • Carya illinoinensis Northern pecans
  • Carya ovata Shagbark hickory
  • Castanea Chestnuts
  • Ginkgo biloba Gingko
  • Juglans ailantifolia Heartnut
  • Juglans regia English Walnut
  • Xanthoceras sorbifolium Yellowhorn

Plants for arid environments

Plantings around vineyards

Some flowering plants attract specific kinds of beneficials, for example, carnivorous flies (Oregon sunshine), predatory bugs (stinging nettle) and Anagrus wasps (sagebrush). Research shows trends of reduced pest abundance and increased beneficial insect diversity and abundance in vineyards with a diversity of native flowering plants compared to vineyards lacking native plants.

  • Artemisia spp. Sagebrush
  • Chrysothamnus, Ericameria Rabbitbrush
  • Eriogonum compositum Northern buckwheat
  • Eriogonum niveum Snow buckwheat
  • Eriogonum elatum Tall buckwheat
  • Clematis ligusticifolia Western clematis
  • Eriophyllum lanatum Oregon sunshine
  • Crepis atribarba Slender hawksbeard
  • Asclepias speciosa Showy milkweed
  • Achillea millefolium Yarrow

Arid trees

  • Juniperus occidentalis Western juniper
  • Larix occidentalis Western larch
  • Picea pungens Blue spruce
  • Pinus flexilis Limber pine
  • Pinus edulis Pinyon pine
  • Pinus ponderosa Ponderosa pine
  • Pinus nigra Austrian pine
  • Populus trichocarpa Black cottonwood

Shrubs

  • Artemisia tridentata Big sagebrush
  • Atriplex canescens Four-wing saltbush
  • Cercocarpus montanus Mountain mahogany
  • Chamaebatiaria Desert sweet millefolium
  • Ericameria nauseosa Rubber rabbitbrush
  • Cornus stolonifera Red-osier dogwood
  • Mahonia repens Creeping Oregon grape
  • Potentilla fruticosa Shrubby cinquefoil
  • Prunus emarginata Bitter cherry
  • Prunus virginiana Chokecherry ‘Schubert’
  • Purshia tridentata Antelope bitterbush
  • Rosa woodsii Woods’ rose
  • Shepherdia argentea Silver buffaloberry
  • Shepherdia canadensis Russet buffaloberry

Herbaceous perennials

  • Antennaria species Cat’s ears
  • Anaphalis margaritacea Pearly everlasting
  • Aster alpinus Dwarf alpine aster
  • Aurinia saxatilis Basket of gold
  • Delosperma species Ice plant
  • Echinacea purpurea Purple coneflower
  • Ericameria nauseosa Rubber rabbitbrush
  • Erigeron annuus Fleabane daisy
  • Eriogonum umbellatum Sulfur buckwheat
  • Eriophyllum lanatum Oregon sunshine
  • Kniphofia uvaria Torch lily
  • Lavandula angustifolia English lavender
  • Linum lewisii Flax
  • Penstemon pinifolius Pineleaf penstemon
  • Rudbeckia species Black-eyed Susan
  • Salvia dorii Purple sage
  • Sedum spurium and album Stonecrops
  • Sphaeralcea munroana Globemallow
  • Rosa woodsii Woods’ rose
  • Yucca glauca Narrow leaf yucca

Groundcovers

  • Juniperus Savin juniper
  • Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Kinnikinnick
  • Sedum Stonecrop
  • Sempervivum Hens and chicks
  • Thymus pseudolanuginosus Wooly thyme
Jason Lueker, a horticulture student, helps maintain the hedgerow at the Oak Creek Center for Urban Horticulture at Oregon State University in Corvallis.
Photo: Hannah O’Leary, © Oregon State University
Mulching in a hedgerow’s early years controls weeds, which helps the plants become established.
Photo: Hannah O’Leary, © Oregon State University
A hedgerow at a Willamette Valley farm combines tall trees with shrubs and flowering plants.
Photo: Janet Donnelly, © Oregon State University

Incentive programs to help with hedgerow establishment

Conservation Reserve Enhancement Program

In exchange for removing environmentally sensitive land from production and establishing permanent resource-conserving plant species, farmers and ranchers are paid an annual rental rate along with other federal and state incentives. This program is administered through the USDA Farm Service Agency and local Soil and Water Conservation districts.

Environmental Quality Incentives Program

This program provides financial and technical assistance to agricultural producers in order to address natural resource concerns and deliver environmental benefits such as improved water and air quality, conserved ground and surface water, reduced soil erosion and sedimentation or improved or created wildlife habitat. The program is administered through the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service via local field offices.

Resources

Agencies

Books and publications

  • Earnshaw, S. Community Alliance with Family Farmers. Hedgerows and Farmscaping for California Agriculture: A Resource Guide For Farmers.
  • Guard, J.B. Wetland Plants of Oregon and Washington. 2010. Lone Pine Publishing.
  • Imhoff, D. and R. Carra. Farming With The Wild: Enhancing Biodiversity on Farms and Ranches. 2011. Sierra Club Books.
  • Kruckenberg, A. Gardening With Natives of the Pacific Northwest. 1982. University of Washington Press.
  • Lee-Mäder, E., J. Hopwood, M. Vaughan, S. Hoffman Black and L. Morandin. Farming with Native Beneficial Insects: Ecological Pest Control Solutions. 2014. Storey Publishing.
  • Link, R. Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. 1999. University of Washington Press,
  • Mader, E., M. Shepherd, M. Vaughan, S. Black, G. LeBuhn, Attracting Native Pollinators. 2011. The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation.
  • Martin, A., H.S. Zim, A.L. Nelson. American Wildlife and Plants: A Guide To Wildlife Food Habits. 1951. Dover Publications.
  • National Center for Appropriate Technology, Oregon Tilth and The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. Conservation Buffers in Organic System: Western States Implementation Guide. March 2014.
  • Pojar, J. and A. MacKinnon. Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast. 2016. Lone Pine Publishing.
  • Rodriguez, O. and R. Dufour. A Pictorial Guide to Hedgerow Plants for Beneficial Insects, ATTRA — Sustainable Agriculture Program.
  • Rose, R., C.E.C. Chachulski, D.L. Haase. Propagation of Pacific Northwest Native Plants. 1998. Oregon State University Press.
  • The Xerces Society. Estimated Costs To Establish Pollinator Hedgerows.

Pollinator guides and publications

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This is a fantastic resource and my hope is that it will be read far and wide. We find it very inspiring here in Southern Oregon.

How the body functions

A very revealing list.

I am in touch with a fellow blogger. Her name is Bela Johnson and her blog is Belas Bright Ideas.

Recently, Bela sent me the following document about the body and I am reproducing it here for you.

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5-7 a.m. — Large Intestine — Drinking water triggers bowel evacuation making room for the new day’s nutritional intake. Removes toxins from the night’s cleansing.

7-9 a.m. — Stomach — Stomach energies are the highest so eat the most important meal of the day here to optimize digestion/assimilation.

9-11 a.m. — Pancreas — The stomach passes its contents on. Enzymes from the pancreas continue the digestive process. Carbohydrate energy made available.

11 a.m.-1 p.m. — Heart — Food materials enter the blood stream. The heart pumps nutrients throughout the system and takes its lipid requirements.

1-3 p.m. — Small Intestine — Foods requiring longer digestion times (proteins) complete their digestion/assimilation.

3-5 p.m. — Bladder — Metabolic wastes from morning’s nutrition intake clear, making room for the kidney’s filtration to come.

5-7 p.m. — Kidney — Filters blood (decides what to keep, what to throw away), maintains proper chemical balance of blood based on nutritional intake of day. Blood to deliver useable nutrients to all tissues.

7-9 p.m. — Circulation — Nutrients are carried to groups of cells (capillaries) and to each individual cell (lymphatics.)

9-11 p.m. — Triple Heater — The endocrine system adjusts the homeostasis of the body based on electrolyte and enzyme replenishment.

11 p.m.- 1 a.m. — Gall Bladder — Initial cleansing of all tissues, processes cholesterol, enhances brain function.

1-3 a.m. — Liver — Cleansing of blood. Processing of wastes.

3-5 a.m. — Lung — Respiration. Oxygenation. Expulsion of waste gasses.

Chong Mai Vessel – gives birth to REN and DU.

Kidney essence – blueprint – you agree who you are going to be: race, parents, family relationships, physical description. 

Resources – REN: bones, vessels, organs, orifices. 

Put in proper order (DU) – construction of blueprint.

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The above list came on the back of an email that Bela sent to me, and again I publish that email.

Paul I agree with all of this IN THEORY. But digestion systems are really individual. What one person can eat, another one just cannot digest. I have spent my entire life discovering what it is I ‘could’ digest! When I got into TCM Traditional Chinese medicine (because both my daughters are practitioners), it was the only system that agreed with what I’m saying to you now. We are all unique, and sometimes we present with things that are contradictory in any other system. Damp but also dry. Cold but also hot. 

At any rate, the Chinese have a theory that the organs cleanse themselves while we sleep. There’s a chart (and you can look this up online), that shows what organ is cleansing at what time. So it is recommended that we eat nothing after 7 PM at the very latest. Because then the cleansing begins, and so demanding that our system digest something during the cleansing time is just really paddling upstream. So both Chris and I find that we sleep way more soundly when we don’t eat anything preferably after six, but after seven at the latest. And yes, both of us do a magnesium supplement at night. Anyhow, good to make people aware that we are what we eat in so many ways!

Finally, here is that chart and the accompanying text that largely follows what Bela published above.

Chinese Medicine’s 24 hour body clock is divided into 12 two-hour intervals of the Qi (vital force) moving through the organ system. Chinese Medicine practitioners use The Organ Body Clock to help them determine the organ responsible for diseases. For example, if you find yourself waking up between the hours of 3-5am each morning, you may have underlying grief or sadness that is bothering you or you may have a condition in the lung area. If feelings of anger or resentment arise, you may feel them strongest during the time of the Liver which is 1-3am or perhaps if you experience back pain at the end of your working day, you could have pent up emotions of fear, or perhaps even Kidney issues.

The Body-Energy Clock is built upon the concept of the cyclical ebb and flow of energy throughout the body. During a 24-hour period (see diagram that follows) Qi moves in two-hour intervals through the organ systems. During sleep, Qi draws inward to restore the body. This phase is completed between 1 and 3 a.m., when the liver cleanses the blood and performs a myriad of functions that set the stage for Qi moving outward again.

In the 12-hour period following the peak functioning of the liver—from 3 a.m. onward—energy cycles to the organs associated with daily activity, digestion and elimination: the lungs, large intestine, stomach/pancreas, heart, small intestine. By mid-afternoon, energy again moves inward to support internal organs associated with restoring and maintaining the system. The purpose is to move fluids and heat, as well as to filter and cleanse—by the pericardium, triple burner (coordinates water functions and temperature), bladder/kidneys and the liver.

5 am to 7 am is the time of the Large Intestine making it a perfect time to have a bowel movement and remove toxins from the day before. It is also the ideal time to wash your body and comb your hair. It is believed that combing your hair helps to clear out energy from the mind. At this time, emotions of defensiveness or feelings of being stuck could be evoked.

7-9am is the time of the Stomach so it is important to eat the biggest meal of the day here to optimize digestion and absorption. Warm meals that are high in nutrition are best in the morning. Emotions that are likely to be stirred at this time include disgust or despair.

9-11am is the time of the Pancreas and Spleen, where enzymes are released to help digest food and release energy for the day ahead. This is the ideal time to exercise and work. Do your most taxing tasks of the day at this time. Emotions such as low self-esteem may be felt at this time.

11am- 1pm is the time of the Heart which will work to pump nutrients around the body to help provide you with energy and nutrition. This is also a good time to eat lunch and it is recommend to have a light, cooked meal. Having a one hour nap or a cup of tea is also recommended during this time. Feelings of extreme joy or sadness can also be experienced at this time.

1-3pm is the time of the Small Intestine and is when food eaten earlier will complete its digestion and assimilation. This is also a good time to go about daily tasks or exercise. Sometimes, vulnerable thoughts or feelings of abandonment my subconsciously arise at this time.

3-5pm is the time of the Bladder when metabolic wastes move into the kidney’s filtration system. This is the perfect time to study or complete brain-challenging work. Another cup of tea is advised as is drinking a lot of water to help aid detoxification processes. Feeling irritated or timid may also occur at this time.

5-7pm is the time of the Kidneys when the blood is filtered and the kidneys work to maintain proper chemical balance. This is the perfect time to have dinner and to activate your circulation either by walking, having a massage or stretching. Subconscious thoughts of fear or terror can also be active at this time.

7-9pm is the time of Circulation when nutrients are carried to the capillaries and to each cell. This is the perfect time to read. Avoid doing mental activities at this time. A difficulty in expressing emotions may also be felt however, this is the perfect time to have sex or conceive. 

9-11pm is the time of Triple Heater or endocrine system where the body’s homeostasis is adjusted and enzymes are replenished. It is recommended to sleep at this time so the body can conserve energy for the following day. Feelings of paranoia or confusion may also be felt.

11pm-1am is the time of the Gall Bladder and in order to wake feeling energized the body should be at rest. In Chinese medicine, this period of time is when yin energy fades ad yang energy begins to grow. Yang energy helps you to keep active during the day and is stored when you are asleep. Subconscious feelings of resentment may appear during this time.

1-3am is the time of the Liver and a time when the body should be alseep. During this time, toxins are released from the body and fresh new blood is made. If you find yourself waking during this time, you could have too much yang energy or problems with your liver or detoxification pathways. This is also the time of anger, frustration and rage.

3-5am the time of the Lungs and again, this is the time where the body should be asleep. If woken at this time, nerve soothing exercises are recommended such as breathing exercises. The body should be kept warm at this time too to help the lungs replenish the body with oxygen. The lungs are also associated with feelings of grief and sadness.

Understanding that every organ has a repair/maintenance schedule to keep on a daily basis offers you the opportunity to learn how to treat yourself for improved health and well-being. It also allows you to identify exactly which organ system or emotion needs strengthening/resolving. Always use your symptoms and body cues as a guide, and if you make a connection above, such as that you get sleepy between 5-7pm, don’t hesitate to research what you can do to strengthen that meridian (which would be the Kidneys). A great solution to deficient kidneys is having a sweet potato for breakfast!

Make sure to look at the emotional aspect too. If you’re sleepy during kidney time, do you have any fears holding you back from reaching your true potential? Are you afraid of rejection? Failure? Addressing this emotion will strengthen the organ and improve your physical health forever.

With the transferable knowledge of TCM you can use the clock for any time of day.

Diet and its effect on the body and mind.

Your dinner may not be the best!

I subscribe to a number of services and one of them is Super Age. Part of their story is shown here:

“Super Age is a new media brand at the intersection of longevity science, culture, and the power of mindset to redefine what’s possible in this one extraordinary life, because thriving is about living well, living longer, and living boldly with intention.”

Jean and I certainly agree with that, as do many, many senior folk. I trust Super Age will not mind if I reproduce in full a recent article that they published.

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You already know not to scroll before bed or down a latte at 4 p.m., but did you know your dinner plate might be sabotaging your sleep?

Emerging research shows that what we eat directly influences how well we sleep, from how fast we fall asleep to how long we stay in deep, restorative sleep. Certain nutrients act as natural sleep aids, while others disrupt your body’s circadian rhythms or blood sugar balance. The good news? A few strategic shifts can help your body rest better, night after night.

5 Sleep-Friendly Nutrients to Add to Your Diet

What you eat in the hours leading up to bedtime can either support your body’s natural sleep cycles or short-circuit them. Specific nutrients work behind the scenes to regulate hormones, calm the nervous system, and stabilize your blood sugar while you rest. Here are five research-backed nutritional strategies to help you fall asleep faster, sleep more deeply, and wake up feeling restored.

1. Magnesium for Muscle Relaxation and Deeper Sleep

Magnesium helps quiet the nervous system, supports slow-wave (deep) sleep, and significantly increases sleep time while decreasing early morning awakening.

THE FOODS:

Add leafy greens (spinach, Swiss chard, collard greens), almonds, cashews, avocado, chickpeas, lentils and pumpkin, flax, and chia seeds like pumpkin to your daily meals.

2. Tryptophan to Increase Sleep Time

Tryptophan is an amino acid that helps the brain produce serotonin, which is then converted into melatonin, the hormone that signals it’s time to sleep. Research shows that tryptophan increases total sleep time, reduces waking time, and number of awakenings.

THE FOODS:

Kidney beans, chickpeas, red lentils, chicken, turkey, rice, eggs, oats, pumpkin seeds, and even tofu are natural sources.

3. Omega-3 Fatty Acids Essential fats to Support Circadian Health

EPA and DHA support melatonin production and help regulate the body’s internal clock. Some studies have found a correlation between Omega-3 levels and sleep quality, as well as improved sleep in people with type 2 diabetes.

THE FOODS: 

Sardines, anchovies, wild salmon, flaxseeds, walnuts, hempseeds.

4. Fiber-Rich Carbohydrates Stabilize Blood Sugar Overnight

These support overnight glucose stability, which leads to deeper sleep by promoting slow-wave sleep and reducing REM-related arousals.

THE FOODS: 

Lentils, steel-cut or rolled oats, barley, sweet potatoes, quinoa, berries, 

5. Melatonin to Improve Sleep Onset and Quality

Melatonin is a hormone naturally produced by the body to signal that it’s time to sleep. Levels rise in the evening and fall in the morning, helping to regulate your circadian rhythm. Your body’s internal clock that regulates sleep and wake cycles. Eating foods that contain small amounts of melatonin may help support this cycle and improve sleep onset and quality, especially when consumed in the evening.

THE FOODS:

Tart cherries, kiwi, walnuts, pistachios, (Eggs, salmon, yogurt and oats, provide tryptophan, B6, magnesium, and zinc. A mineral important for immune function and wound healing which your brain needs to make melatonin).

Bonus: Your Gut, Your Sleep: Why Microbiome Health Matters.

Your gut and brain are in constant communication via the gut-brain axis and the two-way communication between your digestive system and brain plays a key role in sleep regulation. A healthy gut microbiome supports the production of sleep-promoting neurotransmitters like serotonin and GABA,modulates inflammation and influences circadian rhythm through microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids.

A 2025 review in the Journal of Food Science highlights how prebiotics, probiotics and fermented foods can enhance sleep by improving microbiome composition and supporting these neurochemical pathways. Though more large-scale human trials are needed, the emerging science is promising. Here’s how you should load your plates with during the day to support your microbiome:

  • Fiber-rich foods like leafy greens, berries, garlic, oats, and whole grains to nourish beneficial gut bacteria.
  • Fermented foods like yogurt, kefir, kimchi, and sauerkraut to introduce sleep-supportive probiotics.

By feeding your body the nutrients it needs to regulate melatonin, balance blood sugar, and calm the nervous system, you create the perfect internal environment for consistent, rejuvenating rest. Think of it as a nightly investment in longevity, cognition, and metabolic health—served with a side of quinoa.

Check out our Super Age Sleep Guide for more tips on improving the quality of your sleep.

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I wonder how many people are affected by a poor diet, and, more importantly, want to amend what they eat especially for their dinner.

Super Age in general publish sensible articles and this is down to an impressive group of scientific advisors. More details here!

As is said: “We are what we eat.”

‘Tolly’ finds something really special

I’m indebted to George Monbiot for this article, and ‘Tolly’ as a nickname for Iain Tolhurst.

Many articles from people that I follow online pass through my ‘inbox’.

But there was something special about a recent article by George Monbiot that was published in the Guardian on December 5th and I have great pleasure in republishing it here, with George’s permission.

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Shaking It Up

Posted on 7th December 2025

A eureka moment in the pub could help transform our understanding of the ground beneath our feet.

By George Monbiot, published in the Guardian 5th December 2025

It felt like walking up a mountain during a temperature inversion. You struggle through fog so dense you can scarcely see where you’re going. Suddenly, you break through the top of the cloud, and the world is laid out before you. It was that rare and remarkable thing: a eureka moment.
For the past three years, I’d been struggling with a big and frustrating problem. In researching my book Regenesis, I’d been working closely with Iain Tolhurst (Tolly), a pioneering farmer who had pulled off something extraordinary. Almost everywhere, high-yield farming means major environmental harm, due to the amount of fertiliser, pesticides and (sometimes) irrigation water and deep ploughing required. Most farms with apparently small environmental impacts produce low yields. This, in reality, means high impacts, as more land is needed to produce a given amount of food. But Tolly has found the holy grail of agriculture: high and rising yields with minimal environmental harm.

He uses no fertiliser, no animal manure and no pesticides. His techniques, the result of decades of experiment and observation, appear to enrich the crucial relationships between crops and microbes in the soil, through which soil nutrients must pass. It seems that Tolly has, in effect, “trained” his soil bacteria to release nutrients when his crops require them (a process called mineralisation), and lock them up when his crops aren’t growing (immobilisation), ensuring they don’t leach from the soil.

So why the frustration? Well, Tolly has inspired many other growers to attempt the same techniques. Some have succeeded, with excellent results. Others have not. And no one can work out why. It’s likely to have something to do with soil properties. But what?

Not for the first time, I had stumbled into a knowledge gap so wide that humanity could fall through it. Soil is a fantastically complex biological structure, like a coral reef, built and sustained by the creatures that inhabit it. It supplies 99% of our calories. Yet we know less about it than any other identified ecosystem. It’s almost a black box.

Many brilliant scientists have devoted their lives to its study. But there are major barriers. Most soil properties cannot be seen without digging, and if you dig a hole, you damage the structures you’re trying to investigate. As a result, studying even basic properties is cumbersome, time-consuming and either very expensive or simply impossible at scale. To measure the volume of soil in a field, for example, you need to take hundreds of core samples. But as soil depths can vary greatly from one metre to the next, your figure relies on extrapolation. This makes it very hard to tell whether you’re losing soil or gaining it. Measuring bulk density (the amount of soil in a given volume, which shows how compacted it might be), or connected porosity (the tiny catacombs created by lifeforms, a crucial measure of soil health), or soil carbon – at scale – is even harder.

So farmers must guess. Partly because they cannot see exactly what the soil needs, many of their inputs – fertilisers, irrigation, deep ploughing – are wasted. Roughly two-thirds of the nitrogen fertiliser they apply, and between 50% and 80% of their phosphorus, is lost. These lost minerals cause algal blooms in rivers, dead zones at sea, costs for water users and global heating. Huge amounts of irrigation water are also wasted. Farmers sometimes “subsoil” their fields – ploughing that is deep and damaging – because they suspect compaction. The suspicion is often wrong.

Our lack of knowledge also inhibits the development of a new agriculture, which may, as Tolly has done, allow farmers to replace chemical augmentation with biological enhancement.

So when I came to write the book, I made a statement so vague that it reads like an admission of defeat: we needed to spend heavily on “an advanced science of the soil”, and use it to deliver a “greener revolution”. While we know almost nothing about the surface of our own planet, billions are spent on the Mars Rover programme, exploring the barren regolith there. What we needed, I argued, is an Earth Rover programme, mapping the world’s agricultural soils at much finer resolution.

I might as well have written “something must be done!” The necessary technologies simply did not exist. I sank into a stygian gloom.

At the same time, Tarje Nissen-Meyer, then a professor of geophysics at the University of Oxford, was grappling with a different challenge. Seismology is the study of waves passing through a solid medium. Thanks to billions from the oil and gas industry, it has become highly sophisticated. Tarje wanted to use this powerful tool for the opposite purpose – ecological improvement. Already, with colleagues, he had deployed seismology to study elephant behaviour in Kenya. Not only was it highly effective, but his team also discovered it could identify animal species walking through the savannah by their signature footfall.

By luck we were both attached, in different ways, to Wolfson College, Oxford, where we met in February 2022. I saw immediately that he was a thoughtful man – a visionary. I suggested a pint in The Magdalen Arms.

I explained my problem, and we talked about the limits of existing technologies. Was seismology being used to study soil, I asked. He’d never heard of it. “I guess it’s not a suitable technology then?” No, he told me, “soil should be a good medium for seismology. In fact, we need to filter out the soil noise when we look at the rocks.” “So if it’s noise, it could be signal?” “Definitely.”

We stared at each other. Time seemed to stall. Could this really be true?

Over the next three days, Tarje conducted a literature search. Nothing came up. I wrote to Prof Simon Jeffery, an eminent soil scientist at Harper Adams University, whose advice I’d found invaluable when researching the book. I set up a Zoom call. He would surely explain that we were barking up the wrong tree.

Simon is usually a reserved man. But when he had finished questioning Tarje, he became quite animated. “All my life I’ve wanted to ‘see’ into the soil,” he said. “Maybe now we can.” I was introduced to a brilliant operations specialist, Katie Bradford, who helped us build an organisation. We set up a non-profit called the Earth Rover Program, to develop what we call “soilsmology”; to build open-source hardware and software cheap enough to be of use to farmers everywhere; and to create, with farmers, a global, self-improving database. This, we hope, might one day incorporate every soil ecosystem: a kind of Human Genome Project for the soil.

We later found that some scientists had in fact sought to apply seismology to soil, but it had not been developed into a programme, partly because the approaches used were not easily scalable.

My role was mostly fixer, finding money and other help. We received $4m (£3m) in start-up money from the Bezos Earth Fund. This may cause some discomfort, but our experience has been entirely positive: the fund has helped us do exactly what we want. We also got a lot of pro-bono help from the law firm Hogan Lovells.

Tarje, now at the University of Exeter, and Simon began assembling their teams. They would need to develop an ultra-high-frequency variant of seismology. A big obstacle was cost. In 2022, suitable sensors cost $10,000 (£7,500) apiece. They managed to repurpose other kit: Tarje found that a geophone developed by a Slovakian experimental music outfitworked just as well, and cost only $100. Now one of our scientists, Jiayao Meng, is developing a sensor for about $10. In time, we should be able to use the accelerometers in mobile phones, reducing the cost to zero. As for generating seismic waves, we get all the signal we need by hitting a small metal plate with a welder’s hammer.

On its first deployment, our team measured the volume of a peat bog that had been studied by scientists for 50 years. After 45 minutes in the field, they produced a preliminary estimate suggesting that previous measurements were out by 20%. Instead of extrapolating the peat depth from point samples, they could see the wavy line where the peat met the subsoil. The implications for estimating carbon stocks are enormous.

We’ve also been able to measure bulk density at a very fine scale; to track soil moisture (as part of a wider team); to start building the AI and machine learning tools we need; and to see the varying impacts of different agricultural crops and treatments. Next we’ll work on measuring connected porosity, soil texture and soil carbon; scaling up to the hectare level and beyond; and on testing the use of phones as seismometers. We now have further funding, from the UBS Optimus Foundation, hubs on three continents and a big international team.

Eventually, we hope, any farmer anywhere, rich or poor, will be able to get an almost instant readout from their soil. As more people use the tools, building the global database, we hope these readouts will translate into immediate useful advice. The tools should also revolutionise soil protection: the EU has issued a soil-monitoring law, but how can it be implemented? Farmers are paid for their contributions “to improve soil health and soil resilience”, but what this means in practice is ticking a box on a subsidy form: there’s no sensible way of checking.

We’re not replacing the great work of other soil scientists but, developing our methods alongside theirs, we believe we can fill part of the massive knowledge gap. As one of the farmers we’re working with, Roddy Hall, remarks, the Earth Rover Program could “take the guesswork out of farming”. One day it might help everyone arrive at that happy point: high yields with low impacts. Seismology promises to shake things up.

http://www.monbiot.com

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George Monbiot puts his finger precisely on the point of his article: “While we know almost nothing about the surface of our own planet, billions are spent on the Mars Rover programme.

Emergency event.

It may not be so rare as one thinks.

Last Sunday the BBC (Radio 4) broadcast a programme entitled Are You Ready. The programme was presented by Lucy Easthope: “Lucy Easthope is on a mission to find out how we can become better prepared as individuals and as a society.”

It was thirty-minutes long and contained very useful information. I wanted to share further information found online.

Firstly on YouTube.


Be prepared for a blackout with this emergency kit! Don’t get caught in the dark – watch this video to see what essentials you need to have on hand. In this video I want to help you be prepared for when the power goes OUT. Your emergency kit can be a lifeline when the lights go out. With these preps, you can help keep you and your loved one’s safe. Don’t wait until it’s too late – start preparing now for peace of mind in 2024 and beyond. Watch till the end and I’ll share with you 3 ADDITIONAL items that are non-nucket items but can be a HUGE blessing in a power outage.

LIST OF GEAR IN THIS VIDEO: 5 gallon buckets: https://amzn.to/3L6crXS (If you want one, here’s a label maker I use: https://amzn.to/3VYnqca)

BUCKET #1:

Freeze-dried food: https://amzn.to/4bnFPUu

Canned food – get this at your local grocery store

Pepperoni sticks: https://amzn.to/3VWAAqi

Clif Bars: https://amzn.to/45G25aG

Powerade: https://amzn.to/45YtPI5

Gatorade: https://amzn.to/45YtPI5

Mentos: https://amzn.to/3xziLEl

Starburst: https://amzn.to/3zvkuLi

BUCKET #2:

Toilet paper: https://amzn.to/3XIFOXU

Exotac 16 Hour Candle: https://amzn.to/4bgaxyM

Bag of rice: https://amzn.to/4ckwwFW

Bottled Water: https://amzn.to/3XHaSY6

BUCKET #3:

3M Duct Tape: https://amzn.to/4bBN1MZ

Anker battery: https://amzn.to/3L0Qf1r

Batteries: https://amzn.to/3xLvZxI

Bleach: https://amzn.to/4eCJ659

Soap: https://amzn.to/3znY3rK

MyMedic First Aid Kit: https://tinyurl.com/3nfbz9bs

Plugs, instructions for electronics, and cash

Lantern – a batter one from UCO: https://amzn.to/4ciik06

Hybridlight Lantern: https://amzn.to/3L2x5Z0

Candles: https://amzn.to/4bkuynR

Energizer headlamps: https://amzn.to/4ciUHor

Huge flashlight: https://amzn.to/4eFB3o4

Emergency radio: https://amzn.to/3XFCrBd

Meat thermometer: https://amzn.to/3xwj7M1

BONUS RECOMMENDATIONS: Blankets and a fan

+ Power Bank from Anker: https://amzn.to/3zlFcgV

Solar panels for power bank: https://amzn.to/3znYTVq

Secondly, from The Guardian newspaper.

As a former Red Cross emergency volunteer in London, I have experienced that events such as blackouts, gas leaks and floods aren’t as uncommon as we would like to think. I have a camping bag as a “go bag” containing:
 * toilet roll
 * soap
 * toothbrush and toothpaste
 * a change of clothes, walking shoes and a raincoat
 * a blanket
 * a first-aid kit with added blister plasters and water filtration tablets
 * 2 large bottles of water
 * four days’ worth of non-perishable snacks (cereal bars, crackers, flapjack type things)
 * a battery and solar-powered radio
 * a battery and solar-powered torch
 * a map and compass
 * a small address book containing my loved ones’ home addresses.

There you are.

I thought we had a ‘go bag’ prepared but it must have been me thinking of it and nothing more.

Time to turn ideas into actions! Plus we have two dogs plus two caged birds that would not be left behind.

P.S. I have found the two large boxes we had purchased a while ago plus a list of the items to be taken in the event of an emergency. However these were in the garage and had been forgotten. So now they are in the home and will be prepared for use in that emergency.

The evolution of the human brain

This is a deeply fascinating history.

There are many articles on this subject and it is one that I will return to from time to time.

But for today I want to just show a seven-minute video from YouTube.

Amazing!

What a beautiful account!

From the find of the six puppies to the fantastic conclusion.

I subscribe to The Dodo. On September 5th Maeve Dunigan wrote an article that is so beautiful. I have permission to republish the story.

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Rescuers Hear Cries In Open Field — Then See Faces Peeking Out Of A Drain.

“[They] were friendly and very social.”

By Maeve Dunigan

Published on Sep 5, 2025

In a field near the Kansas Humane Society’s Murfin Animal Care Campus, a concrete storm drain peeks out of the green grass, its circular opening extending into a black tunnel below. One morning this past July, humane society team members arrived at work and heard a heartbreaking sound echoing from within this drain — the sound of animals crying for help.

Kansas Humane Society

The rescuers hurried over and found the source of the noise. There, cowering inside, were six little puppies left to fend for themselves.

puppy in drain
KANSAS HUMANE SOCIETY 

Using treats as a tasty incentive, the team coaxed each puppy out from the hole. The pups served a mandatory stray hold at the Wichita Animal Shelter next door. Then they returned to the Kansas Humane Society for further care.

woman helping dog
KANSAS HUMANE SOCIETY 

Staff members gave the pups a comfortable place to recover. They named the dogs Abby, Ellie, Greg, Lev, Mike and Tommy, and made sure each of them received the necessary vaccines and medical attention needed to grow up healthy and strong.

puppies in backseat
KANSAS HUMANE SOCIETY

“The puppies were very wiggly, especially Ellie,” a representative from Kansas Humane Society told The Dodo. “All were friendly and very social.”

Local news stations soon began covering the amazing rescue, urging community members to adopt or foster the pups. Within two days, every puppy was either adopted or put on hold for adoption.

puppies
KANSAS HUMANE SOCIETY 

Today, Abby, Ellie, Greg, Lev, Mike and Tommy are all safe in their forever homes, and rescuers couldn’t be happier.

“We hope their futures are full of love, cuddles and treats,” the representative said.

To help other animals like these puppies, you can make a donation to the Kansas Humane Society.

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It is stories like this one that provide the incentive for not engaging in politics. Period!

The recycling of plastics.

It is not as straightforward as I thought it was.

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How single-stream recycling works − your choices can make it better

Successful recycling requires some care. Alejandra Villa Loarca/Newsday RM via Getty Images

Alex Jordan, University of Wisconsin-Stout

Every week, millions of Americans toss their recyclables into a single bin, trusting that their plastic bottles, aluminum cans and cardboard boxes will be given a new life.

But what really happens after the truck picks them up?

Single-stream recycling makes participating in recycling easy, but behind the scenes, complex sorting systems and contamination mean a large percentage of that material never gets a second life. Reports in recent years have found 15% to 25% of all the materials picked up from recycle bins ends up in landfills instead.

Plastics are among the biggest challenges. Only about 9% of the plastic generated in the U.S. actually gets recycled, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Some plastic is incinerated to produce energy, but most of the rest ends up in landfills instead.

Photos and arrows show how much of each type of product is recycled.
A breakdown of U.S. recycling by millions of tons shows about two-thirds of all paper and cardboard gets a second life, but only about a third of metal, a quarter of glass and less than 10% of plastics do. Alex Jordan/University of Wisconsin-Stout

So, what makes plastic recycling so difficult? As an engineer whose work focuses on reprocessing plastics, I have been exploring potential solutions.

How does single-stream recycling work?

In cities that use single-stream recycling, consumers put all of their recyclable materials − paper, cardboard, plastic, glass and metal − into a single bin. Once collected, the mixed recyclables are taken to a materials recovery facility, where they are sorted.

First, the mixed recyclables are shredded and crushed into smaller fragments, enabling more effective separation. The mixed fragments pass over rotating screens that remove cardboard and paper, allowing heavier materials, including plastics, metals and glass, to continue along the sorting line.

The basics of a single-stream recycling system in Pennsylvania. Source: Van Dyk Recycling Solutions.

Magnets are used to pick out ferrous metals, such as steel. A magnetic field that produces an electrical current with eddies sends nonferrous metals, such as aluminum, into a separate stream, leaving behind plastics and glass.

The glass fragments are removed from the remaining mix using gravity or vibrating screens.

That leaves plastics as the primary remaining material.

While single-stream recycling is convenient, it has downsides. Contamination, such as food residue, plastic bags and items that can’t be recycled, can degrade the quality of the remaining material, making it more difficult to reuse. That lowers its value.

Having to remove that contamination raises processing costs and can force recovery centers to reject entire batches.

A mound of items send for recycling includes a lot of plastic bags.
Plastic bags, food residue and items that can’t be recycled can contaminate a recycling stream. City of Greenville, N.C./Flickr

Which plastics typically can’t be recycled?

Each recycling program has rules for which items it will and won’t take. You can check which items can and cannot be recycled for your specific program on your municipal page. Often, that means checking the recycling code stamped on the plastic next to the recycling icon.

These are the toughest plastics to recycle and most likely to be excluded in your local recycling program:

  • Symbol 3 – Polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, found in pipes, shower curtains and some food packaging. It may contain harmful additives such as phthalates and heavy metals. PVC also degrades easily, and melting can release toxic fumes during recycling, contaminating other materials and making it unsafe to process in standard recycling facilities.
  • Symbol 4 – Low-density polyethylene, or LDPE, is often used in plastic bags and shrink-wrap. Because it’s flexible and lightweight, it’s prone to getting tangled in sorting machinery at recycling plants.
  • Symbol 6 – Polystyrene, often used in foam cups, takeout containers and packing peanuts. Because it’s lightweight and brittle, it’s difficult to collect and process and easily contaminates recycling streams.

Which plastics to include

That leaves three plastics that can be recycled in many facilities:

However, these aren’t accepted in some facilities for reasons I’ll explain.

Taking apart plastics, bead by bead

Some plastics can be chemically recycled or ground up for reprocessing, but not all plastics play well together.

Simple separation methods, such as placing ground-up plastics in water, can easily remove your soda bottle plastic (PET) from the mixture. The ground-up PET sinks in water due to the plastic’s density. However, HDPE, used in milk jugs, and PP, found in yogurt cups, both float, and they can’t be recycled together. So, more advanced and expensive technology, such as infrared spectroscopy, is often required to separate those two materials.

Once separated, the plastic from your soda bottle can be chemically recycled through a process called solvolysis.

It works like this: Plastic materials are formed from polymers. A polymer is a molecule with many repeating units, called monomers. Picture a pearl necklace. The individual pearls are the repeating monomer units. The string that runs through the pearls is the chemical bond that joins the monomer units together. The entire necklace can then be thought of as a single molecule.

During solvolysis, chemists break down that necklace by cutting the string holding the pearls together until they are individual pearls. Then, they string those pearls together again to create new necklaces.

Other chemical recycling methods, such as pyrolysis and gasification, have drawn environmental and health concerns because the plastic is heated, which can release toxic fumes. But chemical recycling also holds the potential to reduce both plastic waste and the need for new plastics, while generating energy.

The problem of yogurt cups and milk jugs

The other two common types of recycled plastics − items such as yogurt cups (PP) and milk jugs (HDPE) − are like oil and water: Each can be recycled through reprocessing, but they don’t mix.

If polyethylene and polypropylene aren’t completely separated during recycling, the resulting mix can be brittle and generally unusable for creating new products.

Chemists are working on solutions that could increase the quality of recycled plastics through mechanical reprocessing, typically done at separate facilities.

One promising mechanical method for recycling mixed plastics is to incorporate a chemical called a compatibilizer. Compatibilizers contain the chemical structure of multiple different polymers in the same molecule. It’s like how lecithin, commonly found in egg yolks, can help mix oil and water to make mayonnaise − part of the lecithin molecule is in the oil phase and part is in the water phase.

In the case of yogurt cups and milk jugs, recently developed block copolymers are able to produce recycled plastic materials with the flexibility of polyethylene and the strength of polypropylene.

Improving recycling

Research like this can make recycled materials more versatile and valuable and move products closer to a goal of a circular economy without waste.

However, improving recycling also requires better recycling habits.

You can help the recycling process by taking a few minutes to wash off food waste, avoiding putting plastic bags in your recycling bin and, importantly, paying attention to what can and cannot be recycled in your area.

Alex Jordan, Associate Professor of Plastics Engineering, University of Wisconsin-Stout

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

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Can we all learn to be better at recycling in the face of so much world ‘news’!

Nutrition advice

An article on educating us on avoiding misinformation.

Many articles on nutrition are full of errors and for the lay person there’s no easy way to understand what is correct, or not.

That’s why a recent article appealed to me and I thought it worth sharing.

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Nutrition advice is rife with misinformation − a medical education specialist explains how to tell valid health information from pseudoscience

If a health claim about a dietary intervention sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Mizina/iStock via Getty Images Plus

Aimee Pugh Bernard, University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus

The COVID-19 pandemic illuminated a vast landscape of misinformation about many topics, science and health chief among them.

Since then, information overload continues unabated, and many people are rightfully confused by an onslaught of conflicting health information. Even expert advice is often contradictory.

On top of that, people sometimes deliberately distort research findings to promote a certain agenda. For example, trisodium phosphate is a common food additive in cakes and cookies that is used to improve texture and prevent spoilage, but wellness influencers exploit the fact that a similarly named substance is used in paint and cleaning products to suggest it’s dangerous to your health.

Such claims can proliferate quickly, creating widespread misconceptions and undermining trust in legitimate scientific research and medical advice. Social media’s rise as a news and information source further fuels the spread of pseudoscientific views.

Misinformation is rampant in the realm of health and nutrition. Findings from nutrition research is rarely clear-cut because diet is just one of many behaviors and lifestyle factors affecting health, but the simplicity of using food and supplements as a cure-all is especially seductive.

I am an assistant professor specializing in medical education and science communication. I also train scientists and future health care professionals how to communicate their science to the general public.

In my view, countering the voices of social media influencers and health activists promoting pseudoscientific health claims requires leaning into the science of disease prevention. Extensive research has produced a body of evidence-based practices and public health measures that have consistently been shown to improve the health of millions of people around the world. Evaluating popular health claims against the yardstick of this work can help distinguish which ones are based on sound science.

A white person's hands holding a smartphone with screen showing a health app, next to a cup of coffee.
To parse pseudoscientific claims from sound advice about health and nutrition, it’s crucial to evaluate the information’s source. tadamichi/Getty Images

Navigating the terrain of tangled information

Conflicting information can be found on just about everything we eat and drink.

That’s because a food or beverage is rarely just good or bad. Instead, its health effects can depend on everything from the quantity a person consumes to their genetic makeup. Hundreds of scientific studies describe coffee’s health benefits and, on the flip side, its health risks. A bird’s-eye view can point in one direction or another, but news articles and social media posts often make claims based on a single study.

Things can get even more confusing with dietary supplements because people who promote them often make big claims about their health benefits. Take apple cider vinegar, for example – or ACV, if you’re in the know.

Apple cider vinegar has been touted as an all-natural remedy for a variety of ailments, including digestive issues, urinary health and weight management. Indeed, some studies have shown that it might help lower cholesterol, in addition to having other health benefits, but overall those studies have small sample sizes and are inconclusive.

Advocates of this substance often claim that one particular component of it – the cloudy sediment at the bottom of the bottle termed “the mother” – is especially beneficial because of the bacteria and yeast it contains. But there is no research that backs the claim that it offers any health benefits.

One good rule of thumb is that health hacks that promise quick fixes are almost always too good to be true. And even when supplements do offer some health benefits under specific circumstances, it’s important to remember that they are largely exempt from Food and Drug Administration regulations. That means the ingredients on their labels might contain more or less of the ingredients promised or other ingredients not listed, which can potentially cause harms such as liver toxicity.

It’s also important to keep in mind that the global dietary supplements industry is worth more than US$150 billion per year, so companies – and wellness influencers – selling supplements have a financial stake in convincing the public of their value.

Misinformation about nutrition is nothing new, but that doesn’t make it any less confusing.

How nutrition science gets twisted

There’s no doubt that good nutrition is fundamental for your health. Studies consistently show that a balanced diet containing a variety of essential nutrients can help prevent chronic diseases and promote overall well-being.

For instance, minerals such as calcium and iron support bone health and oxygen circulation in the blood, respectively. Proteins are essential for muscle repair and growth, and healthy fats, like those found in avocados and nuts, are vital for brain health.

However, pseudoscientific claims often twist such basic facts to promote the idea that specific diets or supplements can prevent or treat illness. For example, vitamin C is known to play a role in supporting the immune system and can help reduce the duration and severity of colds.

But despite assertions to the contrary, consuming large quantities of vitamin C does not prevent colds. In fact, the body needs only a certain amount of vitamin C to function properly, and any excess is simply excreted.

Companies sometimes claim their supplement is “scientifically proven” to cure illness or boost brain function, with no credible research to back it up.

Some companies overstate the benefits while underplaying the hazards.

For example, wellness influencers have promoted raw milk over pasteurized milk as a more natural and nutritious choice, but consuming it is risky. Unpasteurized milk can contain harmful bacteria that leads to gastrointestinal illness and, in some cases, much more serious and potentially life-threatening diseases such as avian influenza, or bird flu.

Such dietary myths aren’t harmless. Reliance on nutrition alone can lead to neglecting other critical aspects of health, such as regular medical checkups and lifesaving vaccinations.

The lure of dietary myths has led people with cancer to replace proven science-backed treatments, such as chemotherapy or radiation, with unproven and misleading nutrition programs.

How to spot less-than-solid science

Pseudoscience exploits your insecurities and emotions, taking advantage of your desire to live the healthiest life possible.

While the world around you may be uncertain and out of your control, you want to believe that at the very least, you have control over your own health. This is where the wellness industry steps in.

What makes pseudoscientific claims so confusing is that they use just enough scientific jargon to sound believable. Supplements or powders that claim to “boost immunity” often list ingredients such as adaptogens and superfoods. While these words sound real and convincing, they actually don’t mean anything in science. They are terms created by the wellness industry to sell products.

I’ve researched and written about reliable ways to distinguish science facts from false health claims. To stay alert and find credible information, I’d suggest you follow a few key steps.

First, check your emotions – strong emotional reactions, such as fear and anger, can be a red flag.

Next, check that the author has experience or expertise in the field of the topic. If they’re not an expert, they might not know what they are talking about. It’s always a good idea to make sure the source is reputable – ask yourself, would this source be trusted by scientists?

Finally, search for references that back up the information. If very little or nothing else exists in the science world to back up the claims, you may want to put your trust in a different source.

Following these steps will separate the facts from fake news and empower you to make evidence-based decisions.

Aimee Pugh Bernard, Assistant Professor of Immunology and Microbiology, University of Colorado Anschutz Medical Campus

This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.

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Sound advice for the majority of us!

Winter is here!

A lovely guest post from Pratyush S.

Pratyush has been very patient with me. He first contacted me regarding sending in a guest post many months ago. At first I thought it was a spam email and then realised that was a mistake. Then stuff my end got in the way, and so on.

But I’m delighted to publish this today, and should add that Pratyush is based in India!

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Winter is here — When you have a golden retriever at home.

Golden Retrievers are great family dogs with a lovely personality, good intelligence, and adaptability. Golden Retrievers are built for colder climates and have plenty of thick, insulating double coats to keep them warm; however, special considerations should still be taken in winter weather to promote the health, comfort, and happiness of your Golden. Below is a complete guide outlining things to be aware of when looking after Golden Retrievers in winter.

Keep Their Paw Pads Safe From Cold and Salt

Although Golden Retrievers enjoy an outdoor adventure, winter can be tough on the pads of their sensitive paws. Winter storms bring snow and ice, which lead to dry skin, cracking and irritation — not to mention the damage from road salt. When they return from walks, be sure to wash their paws properly to get rid of salt or other chemicals. You can apply a paw balm to protect and moisturize your puppy’s paws, make sure you opt for a non-toxic product. Depending on how cold it gets where you live, you may resort to dog booties for their feet when they go outside.

Change Their Diet with the Seasons

Golden Retrievers are energetic, active dogs, and if they’re out in the cold playing during winter, they might need a boost in energy levels. This additional energy expenditure may require you to make minor adjustments in their calorie intake. Over feeding allows them to gain weight, so, consult your Veterinarian to make any alternate diet plan. And they have free fresh water forever, as well during chills when dehydration is possible.

Keep Them Warm Indoors

Golden Retrievers do have a thick double coat which insulates them against the cold but they still need an indoor space to feel warm and comfortable. Give them a warm bed in a wind-free part of your home. If your floors are tiled or wooden, place a blanket or mat under them when they sleep for additional warmth. Do not shave or trim coats too short in winter, it is their natural protection against the cold.

Limit Bathing During Winter

Now, bathing your Golden Retriever too often in winter will remove the natural oils on your dog’s skin which can cause drying of the skin and irritations. Rather, give them a bath only when needed and use a conditioning dog shampoo that helps restore their skin. If your kitty has a bath, be sure to dry them off well so that they don’t catch a chill. Until they are allowed to roam free, blow them dry using a pet safe hair dryer on low or towel drying set properly.

Monitor Their Time Outdoors

Golden Retrievers love to romp and play in the snow, however too much time spent out in freezing conditions can cause hypothermia or frostbite. Do not leave them outside too long and keep an eye on them for signs that they may be feeling cold like shivering or lifting their feet off the ground. On very cold days, keep them busy with something indoors, puzzle toys or activities.

Regular Grooming is Essential

The thick coat of a Golden Retriever can mat and tangle in winter weather. Grooming is also a great way to keep the insulation quality of their coat intact and helps to avoid skin problems. Groom at least three times a week to minimize loose fur, matting,and spread natural oils. Look for any possible drying or skin irritation and when in doubt contact your vet.

Ensure Proper Exercise

Golden Retrievers are energetic dogs that enjoy getting out, and they still need exercise in the winter. On the flip side — snowy or slick conditions may elevate the risk of injuries. Keep them on a leash so they cannot run onto frozen surfaces and only walk in safe areas. If you cannot take them outdoors for exercise, make opportunities indoors to play– fetch or hide-and-seek can help expend some energy.

Watch for Signs of Illness

Cold climates could contribute to Golden Retrievers developing a cold or respiratory infection. Look out for any coughing, sneezing or lethargy. If you observe unusual behavior or signs of illness, take action and contact your veterinarian. Make sure they are vaccinated against seasonal diseases.

Offer Enrichment and Mental Stimulation

When the weather grows chilly, it can restrain outdoor actions that need to be carried out in the hot sun so exercise for a Golden Retriever should be maintained indoor as well. Keep their mind active with interactive toys, treat-dispensing puzzles or by teaching them new tricks. Physical exercise is very important, especially during the colder season when outdoor playtime becomes scarce, but so does mental stimulation.

Watch Over Older Dogs

For older Golden Retrievers, the cold can aggravate any existing joint problems e.g. arthritis. Keep them a warm, cozy resting space and try orthopedic beds to relieve them of joint problems. Consider discussing with your vet promoting joint health, supplements that help in the cold months or medications.

Conclusion

Taking care of a Golden Retriever in winter is all about comfort, health and happiness. However, though their double coat does provide some protection against the cold, they need you to help them get through winter safely and comfortably. With the right protection for their paws, some diet changes, and keeping them warm and active, your golden retriever can enjoy the winter just like humans. Take good care of them and they will love the winter season as much as you do!

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There is great advice in this guest post and for anyone with Golden Retrievers this post is spot on. To be honest, the advice presented is applicable to all breeds of dogs.

Thank you, Pratyush